Elizabeth Knollys, Lady Layton George Gower (1540-1596)

The portrait presents a woman in three-quarter view against a dark, almost featureless background. Her gaze is directed towards the viewer with a directness that suggests both confidence and a degree of formality. The lighting focuses primarily on her face and upper torso, leaving the lower portion of the composition in shadow.
Here we see an elaborate costume indicative of high social standing. A large, dark hat adorned with feathers and what appears to be intricate embroidery sits atop her head. This is complemented by a voluminous ruff, constructed from layers of pleated fabric, which frames her face and draws attention to her neck. The dress itself is richly decorated with patterns that seem to mimic precious jewels or metallic embellishments, contributing to an overall impression of wealth and status.
The artist has rendered the woman’s skin tone with a delicate pinkish hue, suggesting youthfulness and health. Her hair, visible beneath the hat and ruff, appears reddish-brown, styled in loose curls that soften her features. The details of her facial expression are subtle; there is a slight suggestion of a smile, but it remains ambiguous, preventing easy categorization as either joyful or melancholic.
In the upper left corner, an inscription identifies the year A° DNI 1577 and a small heraldic shield displays a coat of arms featuring red roses on a white field. This visual element serves to anchor the portrait within a specific historical context and likely signifies familial lineage or allegiance. The presence of this emblem reinforces the subject’s position within a structured social hierarchy.
Subtly, the dark background creates a sense of isolation, drawing attention solely to the woman and her attire. It can be interpreted as an indication of the constraints placed upon women in that era – a visual representation of their limited sphere of influence despite their elevated status. The formality of the pose and costume suggests a deliberate presentation of self, perhaps intended to convey virtue, piety, or familial pride. The overall effect is one of restrained elegance and carefully constructed identity.