Roerich N.K. – Female costume
1912. Paper on cardboard, tempera, bronze and graphite pencil. 32.8 x 21.5 cm.
Location: Bakhrushin Theatre Museum, Moscow (Театральный музей им. А. А. Бахрушина).
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The dress consists of several distinct layers and components. A vibrant blue outer skirt flares outwards from the waist, contrasting with a white underskirt that extends to mid-calf. The sleeves are particularly striking: they are puffed at the shoulders and transition into a narrower form towards the wrist, adorned with a reddish-brown patterned fabric. A central panel of white fabric runs down the bodice, creating a vertical emphasis within the overall design.
The headwear is perhaps the most unusual element. It’s a tall, rigid structure, painted in shades of green and blue, topped with a floral motif. A small, stylized face is incorporated into the headdress itself, adding an unexpected and slightly unsettling detail. The facial expression appears neutral, almost mask-like, contributing to the sense of formality and perhaps suggesting a symbolic rather than individual representation.
The color palette is bold and somewhat unconventional for portraiture. The combination of blue, white, and reddish-brown creates visual interest and suggests a deliberate attempt to highlight the distinctiveness of the costume. Brushstrokes appear loose and expressive, indicating an emphasis on capturing the essence of the garment rather than meticulous realism.
Subtly, the drawing conveys ideas about cultural identity and tradition. The elaborate nature of the clothing implies significance – perhaps ceremonial or celebratory – and suggests a desire to preserve and showcase specific customs. The stylized face within the headdress could be interpreted as an attempt to universalize the figure, representing not just one woman but a collective heritage. The formality of the pose and the lack of background detail further reinforce this sense of cultural presentation, suggesting that the costume itself is the primary subject of interest.