Metropolitan Museum: part 4 – Master H.A. or A.H. ) - Mary of Burgundy
Master H.A. or A.H. ): Austrian (Tirol? 1528; Austrian; Oil on conifer panel; 17 5/8 x 12 3/16 in. (44.8 x 31 cm); painted surface 17 5/16 x 12 in. (43.9 x 30.5 cm)
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Here we see an individual adorned with elaborate attire indicative of high social standing. A complex headdress, combining black velvet with a pinkish-red gable, dominates the upper portion of the image. The jewelry is particularly noteworthy: a pendant featuring intricate detailing hangs from her neck, complemented by dangling earrings that mirror its design. Her gown, visible at the neckline and sleeves, displays an embroidered pattern in shades of red and gold, suggesting considerable wealth and access to skilled artisans.
The artist has rendered the woman’s features with meticulous detail. The skin tone is pale, characteristic of aristocratic portraiture, and her lips are delicately formed. A slight curve to her mouth hints at a restrained composure, perhaps intended to convey dignity and control. Her hair, dark and flowing, cascades down her back, partially concealed by the headdress.
The choice of profile view is significant. It was a common convention in Northern Renaissance portraiture, often associated with nobility and conveying an air of aloofness and authority. The lack of direct eye contact reinforces this impression; she appears distant and unapproachable.
Subtleties within the painting suggest layers of meaning beyond mere representation. The color palette – the deep blacks, reds, and golds against the cool teal backdrop – creates a sense of richness and solemnity. The precise rendering of textures – the sheen of the jewelry, the velvet of the headdress, the embroidery on the gown – speaks to an emphasis on material value and meticulous craftsmanship.
The overall effect is one of controlled elegance and restrained power. It’s likely that this portrait was commissioned to project a specific image: one of status, refinement, and perhaps even political authority. The absence of any narrative elements or personal details reinforces the impression of a carefully constructed public persona.