Internal structure and restoration of mechanical Swiss wristwatches 
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Swiss watches have graced the wrists of royalty, celebrities and watch enthusiasts around the world for centuries, and their appeal remains unchanged. Revered for their precision, craftsmanship and elegance, Swiss watches are more than just timekeeping instruments, they are exquisite works of art.
However, like any other mechanical device, these complex timepieces can break down over time, requiring professional repairs to restore them to their original glory. In one of the best workshops offering watch repair in Moscow , “Repassazhnaya on Kurskaya”, we were told about the main parts of mechanical Swiss watches, about the rich heritage of some famous Swiss watch manufacturers and about those elements that can fail over time. Fortunately, there are craftsmen who can repair these movements to ensure that these marvels of watchmaking continue to operate with high precision.
Main parts of mechanical Swiss watches
Mechanism : The heart of any Swiss watch is its movement, also known as the caliber. The mechanism is responsible for accurate and uninterrupted timekeeping. There are two main types of mechanisms: manual and automatic. Manual movements require regular winding of the crown, while automatic movements are self-winding and wind the mainspring by moving the wearer’s wrist. The mechanism is a symphony of carefully designed gears, wheels, springs and escapements that interact harmoniously to measure the passage of time.
Dial : The dial is the visible surface of the watch on which hour markers, numbers and hands are located that allow you to tell the time. Swiss watchmakers take pride in the craftsmanship of their dials, which are often decorated with exquisite guilloche patterns, sunburst finishes or elegant enamel. Some watch faces even use luminescent materials to improve readability in low-light conditions.
Hands : The hands of Swiss watches are not just indicators, but small masterpieces. Precisely crafted, the hands indicate the hours, minutes and seconds on the dial, moving in harmony with the movement. The hands, often finely plated or highly polished, demonstrate the watchmaker’s attention to detail.
Crown : The crown is a small adjuster on the side of the watch case, usually located at the three o’clock position. It performs a variety of functions, allowing the wearer to manually wind the watch (in manual movements), set the time and date, and adjust other functions such as the chronograph or moon phases. A well-made crown ensures smooth and pleasant winding.
Case : The case houses all of the watch’s internal components, providing protection and maintaining the overall aesthetic design. Swiss watch cases are made from a variety of materials and shapes, including stainless steel, gold, platinum and even high-tech materials such as ceramics or carbon fiber. The finely crafted and polished case is a showcase of the brand’s personality and attention to craftsmanship.
Crystal : The transparent cover that protects the dial and hands is called crystal. Traditionally, Swiss watches use sapphire crystals, which are exceptionally scratch-resistant. Sapphire crystals are made from synthetic sapphire, one of the hardest materials on Earth after diamond. Thanks to them, the dial and complex mechanisms of the watch remain undamaged during daily wear.
Bezel : The bezel is a ring around the crystal, which can be fixed or rotating, depending on the purpose of the watch. For some watches, the bezel is purely a decorative element that gives the watch a special style. However, in other watches, especially diving watches, the rotating bezel serves a functional purpose, allowing divers to measure elapsed time underwater.
Bracelet : A bracelet or band holds the watch on your wrist, adding to the overall look and feel of the watch. Swiss manufacturers offer many options for bracelets and straps, including stainless steel, leather, gold, rubber or fabric. Each material gives the watch a distinct character, satisfying the preferences of a wide range of customers.
Famous Swiss watch manufacturers
Switzerland has been the epicenter of watchmaking for centuries and is home to many renowned watch companies. Each brand has its own unique history, philosophy and contribution to the development of watchmaking. Here are some of the most famous Swiss watch companies:
> Patek Philippe : Founded in 1839, Patek Philippe is one of the oldest and most prestigious watch manufacturers in the world. Known for their high quality and artisanal approach, Patek Philippe watches are considered family heirlooms and are often passed down from generation to generation.
> Rolex : Synonymous with luxury and quality, Rolex watches are renowned throughout the world for their durability, precision and timeless design. Rolex has a rich history of innovation, introducing the first waterproof wristwatch, the first automatic date wristwatch, and many other innovations.
> Omega : As the official timekeeper of the Olympic Games since 1932, Omega has a strong reputation for precision and innovative timepieces. Omega has been involved in important historical events such as NASA’s missions to the Moon, giving it a strong place in both watchmaking and space exploration.
> TAG Heuer : Founded in 1860, TAG Heuer is known for its sporty and stylish designs, making it a favorite among motorsport enthusiasts. The brand has a rich history of developing precision chronographs and is associated with various motorsport competitions and teams.
> Audemars Piguet : Founded in 1875, Audemars Piguet is renowned for producing complex and intricate watches. This brand is credited with creating the world’s first luxury sports watch, the Royal Oak, which has become an iconic design in the industry.
> Jaeger-LeCoultre : With a heritage spanning nearly two centuries, Jaeger-LeCoultre is renowned for its exceptional craftsmanship and innovative movements. The brand is a pioneer in the creation of ultra-thin movements and the author of numerous patented watch innovations.
> IWC Schaffhausen : Founded in 1868 in Schaffhausen, IWC Schaffhausen specializes in the production of watches for aviators and pilots. The brand combines precision engineering and timeless design to create timepieces that are durable and stylish.
> Longines : With a history dating back to 1832, Longines is renowned for its elegant watches that perfectly combine tradition and innovation. The brand’s winged hourglass logo symbolizes its long-standing commitment to quality and precision.
Items that may fail
Swiss watches, despite their careful design and precision, are not immune to wear and tear. Many factors, including daily use, environmental exposure, and accidental impacts, can cause problems that require repair. Here are some common items that can be broken or damaged and subsequently repaired by qualified watchmakers:
Mechanical problems : The complex mechanical mechanism of a Swiss watch, consisting of hundreds of tiny parts, can experience various problems over time. Ingress of dust, moisture, or prolonged use without maintenance can lead to problems such as unstable operation of the watch mechanism, loss of power reserve, or even complete stoppage. To correct these problems, a professional watchmaker will carefully disassemble the movement, clean each part, replace worn components, lubricate the moving parts, and then reassemble the movement with the utmost precision.
Scratched or cracked crystal : Despite the exceptional hardness of sapphire crystals, they can be damaged by impact or abrasive forces. Scratches or cracks on glass
Scratches and cracks on the crystal not only spoil the appearance of the watch, but can also compromise its water resistance. An experienced watchmaker can replace damaged glass, providing reliable protection for the dial and fragile parts.
Water damage : Many Swiss watches have a certain degree of water resistance, protecting the mechanism from moisture and dust. However, exposure to water beyond the watch’s water resistance rating may result in moisture penetration, rust, and damage to the movement. In such cases, a professional watchmaker will disassemble the watch, thoroughly clean and dry the parts, replace any damaged parts, and then reassemble the watch and test it for water resistance.
Worn gaskets : Gaskets are the most important seals to keep your watch waterproof. Over time, these gaskets can deteriorate due to age, environmental exposure, or lack of care. An experienced watchmaker will check and replace worn gaskets during regular maintenance to ensure the watch is waterproof.
Damaged crown or stem : The crown and stem are important parts that allow the wearer to interact with the watch, wind it, set the time, and adjust other functions. Physical impact or improper handling may cause the crown to break or the stem to become damaged. Professional watchmakers have the expertise to repair or replace these components to keep your watch running smoothly.
Bracelet/Strap Repair : The bracelet or strap of a Swiss watch can wear out over time. Leather straps may show signs of aging, rubber ones may lose elasticity, and metal ones may become loose or damaged. An experienced watchmaker can repair or replace these elements, restoring the watch’s comfort and appearance.
Complications and special functions : Complicated Swiss watches, such as those with a perpetual calendar, moon phases or chronograph, are marvels of engineering, equipped with complex additional mechanisms. Diagnosing and troubleshooting these watches requires special knowledge and experience. Qualified watchmakers with experience working with complex watch movements are essential to restoring these special functions to optimal performance.
Repairing Swiss watches is an art that requires a deep understanding of watch mechanics, precision and attention to detail. Every detail, from the complex mechanical movement to the smallest components, plays an important role in the operation of a watch. Swiss watchmakers continue to push the boundaries of innovation, creating timepieces that combine heritage, technology and artistic design. Owning a Swiss watch is a testament to the appreciation of craftsmanship and participation in a rich watch heritage.
However, these masterpieces are not immune to the effects of time and wear and tear. Like any mechanical device, Swiss watches require regular maintenance and, if necessary, professional repairs to maintain their perfect performance. Whether it’s restoring an antique heirloom or ensuring the longevity of a modern luxury watch, entrusting your repairs to experienced watchmakers is essential.
The art of Swiss watch repair involves meticulous disassembly, cleaning, repair, reassembly and testing to ensure every component functions harmoniously and ensures accurate timekeeping for years to come. For watch connoisseurs, owning a Swiss watch is not just about admiration: they are obliged to take care of these mechanical marvels and preserve them, passing them on to future generations as a treasured heirloom. With proper care and skilled watchmaking, Swiss watches can remain a symbol of timeless elegance and a testament to the beauty of traditional craftsmanship combined with modern innovation.