The exhibition "Fashion designer, whom Stanislavsky believed. On the 155th birthday of Nadezhda Petrovna Lamanova. Theatrical costume from the collection of the Moscow Art Theater Museum" Automatic translate

From June 8 to August 21, 2016, the Moscow Fashion Museum will host the exhibition “Fashion Designer, who Stanislavsky believed. On the 155th anniversary of the birth of Nadezhda Petrovna Lamanova. Theatrical costume from the collection of the Moscow Art Theater Museum. ”

For the first time, more than 40 exhibits from the collection of the Moscow Art Theater Museum will be presented at the exhibition. Among them are about 20 costumes and dresses made under the direction of Nadezhda Petrovna Lamanova for the performances “The Marriage of Figaro”, “Othello”, “At Life in the Paws”, “Anna Karenina” based on sketches by Alexander Golovin. Particularly noteworthy is the dress made of brocade and silk by Fru Juliana, which was played by the brilliant Olga Knipper-Chekhova in the play “Living in the Claws” in 1911. The exhibition will also feature a portrait of this wonderful actress by Nikolai Ulyanov. Desdemona’s dress made of brocade, silk, trimmed with braid and galloon was modeled by Nadezhda Petrovna for the 1930 performance of Othello. In 1937, on the stage of the Moscow Art Theater, the play "Anna Karenina" was released, where Alla Tarasova (Anna Karenina) created a chiffon peignoir, rep dress-cover and a costume made of silk and cotton. In the silk dress-suit from Lamanova and a twill hat, decorated with ribbon and feathers, the inimitable Angelina Stepanova (Betsy Tverskaya) shone in the scene “At the Race”. The exposition will include sketches of sets and costumes by Alexander Golovin for the performances of “Crazy Day or the Marriage of Figaro” in 1927, “Othello” in 1930, photographs of unsaved costumes and documents from the funds of the Moscow Art Theater Museum.

Nadezhda Petrovna Lamanova was born into an impoverished noble family in the Nizhny Novgorod province in 1861, and was the eldest of five daughters. After graduating from an eight-year gymnasium, and the Moscow school of cutting and sewing Olga Suvorova in 1883, she began working as a cutter in the famous fashion atelier Madame Voitkevich. Possessing an amazing instinct and knowledge of the structure of the human figure, Nadezhda Lamanova was able to masterfully conceal her shortcomings. Possessing perfection in the art of drapery, camouflage, emphasizing the merits, she sought amazing silhouettes in the creation of outfits.

At 24, Nadezhda Lamanova became the owner of her own studio on Bolshaya Dmitrovka, which in a few years acquired the status of Fashion House. In 1898, she was awarded the title "Supplier of the Court of Her Imperial Highness Elizabeth Feodorovna," and in 1904 Nadezhda Lamanova became the "Supplier of the Court of Her Imperial Highness Alexandra Fedorovna."

In 1901, a family friend Konstantin Sergeyevich Stanislavsky invited Nadezhda Lamanova to take part in the creation of costumes for the Moscow Art Theater. One of her first works was the play "The Cherry Orchard", where she created costumes for the performer of the role of Lyubov Ranevskaya - Olga Knipper-Chekhova. Under the guidance of Nadezhda Lamanova, costumes for the performances “The Marriage of Figaro” and “Othello” based on sketches by Alexander Golovin, as well as for the performances “In Life in the Claws”, “Enemies”, “Tartuffe”, “School of Slander”, “In Dreams” were made, "Anna Karenina."

In 1905, the famous painter Valentin Serov painted the famous portrait of Maria Nikolaevna Ermolova, who posed for him in a dress from Lamanova. It is known that Nadezhda Petrovna herself also posed for him for her portrait, but the portrait remained unfinished due to the death of the artist.

The October Revolution deprived 56-year-old Nadezhda Lamanova of almost everything. Due to her noble descent, she ended up in Butyrka prison, from where she was released thanks to the petitions of Maxim Gorky and other influential friends. Nadezhda Petrovna was able to provide herself with official work - with her direct participation, a Workshop of modern costume and the first sewing educational institutions of the Soviet Union were created. In 1925, Nadezhda Lamanova won the Grand Prix at the World Exhibition in Paris for dresses in the Russian style.

Nadezhda Lamanova also collaborated with Soviet cinema. Under her leadership and with her participation, costumes of famous and already classic Soviet films were made: “Alexander Nevsky” by Sergei Eisenstein (1938), “Circus” by Grigory Alexandrov (1936), “Aelita” by Yakov Protazanov (1924), “Generation winners "Vera Stroevoy (1936).

But the main place of work of Nadezhda Petrovna remained the Moscow Art Theater, where she worked as a consultant until the last day of her life. On a fateful day, two hours before her death, she was at the Theater and talked with artists who left Moscow that day. On the way from the Art Theater to the Bolshoi Theater, she suddenly died on the street.

Konstantin Stanislavsky in 1933, after the premiere of the performance “The Barber of Seville” wrote: “Our precious, irreplaceable, ingenious Nadezhda Petrovna Lamanova screaming loudly:“ Bravo, encore! ”.

Roxy Hart (Olga Androvskaya), performance of the Moscow Art Theater "Advertising". 1930 year. The author of the costume is Nadezhda Lamanova.

Elizaveta (Nina Slastenina), performance of the Moscow Art Theater "Yegor Bulychev". 1934 year. The author of the costume is Nadezhda Lamanova.

Antonina (Irina Wulf), performance of the Moscow Art Theater "Egor Bulychev". 1934 year. The author of the costume is Nadezhda Lamanova.

Anna Karenina (Alla Tarasova), 1937. The author of the costume is Nadezhda Lamanova.

Lady. The scene “At Betsy”, (Nadezhda Buchstab), 1937. The author of the costume is Nadezhda Lamanova.