Tilly Kettle – Shuja-ud-Dawlah (1754-1775), Nawab of Oudh
1772. oil on canvas
Location: Yale Center for British Art, Paul Mellon Collection, New Haven.
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The man’s clothing is richly detailed and indicative of considerable wealth and status. He wears a fur-lined hat, layered with elaborate embroidered garments featuring floral motifs in vibrant colors – reds, greens, yellows, and blues – against a dark background. A heavy fur stole drapes over his shoulders, further emphasizing the luxurious nature of his attire. The intricate patterns on his clothing suggest a sophisticated understanding of textile design and craftsmanship. He holds a decorative object, possibly a ceremonial sword or staff, in his left hand, reinforcing his position as a figure of power.
The background is divided into two distinct zones. To the left, a section of what appears to be an architectural column provides a vertical anchor for the composition. The right side reveals a landscape with buildings and figures, suggesting a courtly setting or palace grounds. These distant figures are rendered in less detail, creating a sense of depth and emphasizing the subject’s prominence within the scene. The sky is overcast, lending a subdued tone to the overall atmosphere.
Subtleties within the painting suggest an interplay between cultural identities. While the clothing clearly reflects South Asian traditions, the style of the fur hat and certain aspects of the composition might indicate European influence or patronage. This blending of aesthetics likely served to project an image of cosmopolitanism and sophistication – a deliberate strategy for a ruler seeking to navigate complex political landscapes and establish legitimacy through visual representation. The direct gaze establishes a connection with the viewer, inviting contemplation on his power and status while simultaneously maintaining a degree of distance.